Beer Today publisher Darren Norbury takes a bus to Treen’s Brewery in Ponsanooth, Cornwall, to celebrate the business’s sixth anniversary.
Simon Treen hosting the sixth birthday party at his Ponsanooth brewery. Photographs: Beer Today
You’ll remember the Egyptians are said to have noted that “the mouth of a perfectly happy man is filled with beer”. Seems they were right, although they possibly didn’t imagine this happening on a wet Saturday afternoon in Ponsanooth, after a half-mile hike down a country lane in late summer rain.
First day off in ages, since Newton Abbot’s Maltingsfest in April. Different venue, similar cast. This time the sixth anniversary of Treen’s Brewery, co-owner Simon sporting a sixth birthday badge, wife Sarah dispensing the good stuff at the back of the brewery. The whole family were involved, with children collecting glasses for washing.
The rain came down — hammered it at times — but if you’ve got a choice of eight great real ales to hand, and the Aussie Smoker nearby on barbecue duties, you can’t really go wrong.
Treen’s Krowsek
The brewery was established in 2016, Simon going independent after a stint on the St Austell brewing team. The plant has gradually grown as the popularity of the cask ales has grown. Beers are fermented for around 12 days to present them in the best condition possible. Crowdfunding has helped with the acquisition of new kit, and a move into bottling has been a great success, particularly during lockdown. New recipes have been developed, including a lager, Hirra, and a smoked beer, Smoulder. Many pub accounts have been added and the beer now enjoys a big following throughout its Cornwall heartland.
Treen’s is fiercely Cornish and pro-cask ale. To find it on sale in a pub is a joy. But to have it in proper branded glassware at source is an utter delight. I started with a well matured Cloud Cuckoo (5.9% ABV). I’ve described this in the past as a winter warmer, but it’s also very welcome as your first beer when you’ve trudged through the rain that nearby Drift reservoir so badly needs. Rich malt, berry fruit notes, and a hint of spiciness.
Sarah Treen serves former Cornwall CAMRA chair Bob Bunce and his wife, Sonia
Onward, then, to ESB-style Krowsek (5.2% ABV), a long-time favourite, rich caramel, berries, and red apple, almost edging into Irish red territory. And, continuing the rainy day theme, Resolve, the 5.2% stout, with chocolate, coffee, vanilla, and a slightly charcoal edge. Still raining? Who cares… Lest you think I’d had an almost hop-free afternoon, I finished off with some Sunbeam, a perennial Treen’s session favourite. Citrus notes, light and refreshing, perfect as the weather abated a little and we headed back for our bus.
It’s a shame the Treens don’t throw open the door to their brewery more often, but that makes these occasions all the more enjoyable. If you haven’t had the pleasure yet, look out for Treen’s beers and keep drinking cask in pubs as licensees fight to keep them open.
