It’s quite a while ago now, pre-pandemic even, when Nick Simpson, proprietor of the Pilchard Press Alehouse micropub, in St Ives, passed me a bottle of IPA bearing a distinctive Angler Fish logo.
Matt Hallett at Saltings Brew Co, Nancegollan. Photographs: Beer Today
This was the first beer produced by a brewery I had, up until that moment, never heard of. Saltings Brew Co is named after an area in the village of Lelant, near St Ives, beside the Hayle Estuary and the railway line that links St Erth and St Ives — one of the most beautiful train trips it’s possible to go on in the UK.
The IPA was modern, hazy, juicy, packed full of hops and clearly well made. And then Saltings Brewing Co went quiet, on my radar at least. Then, a few weeks back, a flurry of activity on Instagram, and news of a new brewhouse. I had to investigate and found myself days later in an industrial unit in a corner of an estate at Nancegollen — miles away from Lelant — in the company of brewer Matt Hallett, who hails originally from Manchester.
It’s a two-man operation with Matt, who has a background in marketing, hands on with the brewing, and business partner Nick Storey looking after the equipment and engineering side.
It’s a big scale-up from the early days of brewing in Matt’s kitchen, in Lelant. Now there’s a five-barrel kit which is pressed into action just once a month at the moment. Each brew goes into about 1,000 cans — the duo have a canning line which was acquired from the now defunct Fallen Brewing Co, in Scotland. The cans go mostly to restaurants, notably Mackerel Sky, in West Cornwall, where they are paired successfully with a range of dishes.
During my visit I had a taste of the latest beer, Lundy, a 5% ABV “unfiltered and uncompromising hazy IPA”. There are tropical and citrus notes on the aroma and palate, good mouthfeel, and some nice bitterness. There’s double dry hopping for extra oomph! Those hops? Citra, Mosaic, Azacca, Galaxy. A good modern combination.
The pair hope to grow the business slowly but surely, in an uncertain market as costs bite both brewers and consumers. With beers named after shipping forecast areas, the outlook looks good. Maybe some keg soon, but for now the cans lead the way. Look out for the distinctive designs!
