Before Covid (do we denote those days as BC?) I was a bit fed up with beer festivals. I’d come to the conclusion that (with the possible exception of St Austell Brewery’s Celtic Beer Festival, which is a law unto itself) I’d far prefer to go to a good pub festival, have some comfy seating, and enjoy that Local vibe.
Fast forward two and a half years. “You’ll never guess what I’m doing this week,” I said to anyone who’d listen. “Only going to a beer festival!” And what a way to get back into that scene, in spring sunshine at the Driftwood Spars hotel in Trevaunance Cove, on the spectacularly beautiful north coast of Cornwall. Old friends, many of whom not seen since BC. And the annual (under normal circumstances) The Light, The Dark, and The Saison festival, presided over by beer-loving landlady Louise Treseder and Driftwood Spars Brewery’s head brewer Mike Mason, recruited from Brewhouse and Kitchen in Lichfield in May 2020.
Mike filled the huge brewery boots of Pete ‘Fluffy’ Martin (pictured above, with brewery cat Mouse), who passed away far too young at the start of 2020 and who had a huge influence on a Cornwall brewing scene that punches hugely above its weight. His memory lives on, though, and no more visibly than in Pete’s Mild, which takes pride of place on the Driftwood Spars bar this festival weekend. As I mentioned in my previous blog, March is Mild Month on Beer Today, so I was more than delighted to be reacquainted with this brew following its release last year. It’s being brewed once a year in Pete’s memory.
The beer (4.5% ABV) is ruby red and quite fruity for a mild, but this reflects Pete’s love for challenging expectations. Caramel malt offers good balance. The hops are Challenger and Mystic. It’s a terrific easy-drinking beer, and was one of my festival highlights.
Pete’s Mild (left) and Release The Stars, from Wild Beer Co and Thornbridge Brewery
But, joys of joys, more milds, and a couple of crackers they were, too. Step forward Tiger Tom Ruby Mild, from Cerne Abbas Brewery, in Dorset, and Harbour Brewing Co’s Single Fin Dark Mild. The former is a ruby red brew, nicely rounded with a good smooth body and a cracking roast malt profile, coming in at 4.4.% ABV. The latter darker, at a classically sessionable 3.8% ABV, with more of a berry fruit twang.
Further festival highlights? Two standouts for me. Release the Stars (5% ABV) is a light, exceptionally fragrant collaboration from Wild Beer Co and Thornbridge Brewery. It’s part of an experimental series examining the release of bound thiols (alcohol compunds) from hops and malt. Beautiful elderflower notes, both on the nose and palate. Then there’s Driftwood Spars’ own Red River Rye (4.8% ABV), a delightful red hue, and with spicy notes adding an extra dimension to a good best bitter style ale.
The festival continues today and tomorrow and is well worth a visit. The weather looks set fair again today, and a walk from the bus stop in St Agnes village is just the ticket. There’s food available, and the venue is family and dog friendly.
