As it turned out, there was only a small queue, but as the re-opening day drew on, The Star regained the buzz for which it is known up and down the country.
The Star in question is an early 20th century brick roadhouse pub, on the main A30, three miles outside of Penzance. Traffic rushes by, as it has done for many years, albeit at a more sedate 30mph these days. Plans for a by-pass have been presented frequently during most locals’ live.
Inside, it used to comprise several rooms, but has been opened out into one big space, which can easily accommodate 100 or so on a busy Friday evening ‘workers’ playtime’ session.
After many years in the hands of big pub companies, The Star Inn, Crowlas, was purchased by Pete Elvin and Tracey Cornelius in 1999, and in subsequent years the addition of the Penzance Brewing Co made it a national destination for beer lovers.
Sadly, Pete died in 2023 and the family took the decision to close the pub the following spring. But now local couple Paul and Jane Badcock, who already run the popular Packet pub in nearby Rosudgeon, have taken it on. Much-needed paint has been applied, and forbidding net curtains, a synthesis of man-made fibres held together by nicotine dating back into last century, have been replaced by elegant cream coloured louvre shutters. The last remnants of the nets have been framed, however, lest we forget.
Otherwise, changes to what made The Star what it was are not huge. You’d be a fool to mess with such a formula. Beer and conversation. It’s as simple as that. There’s food now, pubby dishes, nothing too elaborate, and the dining room, previously a dull, under-utilised space, once used as a regular doctor’s surgery, has been given an uplifting makeover.
The pub was re-opened by resident and long-time Star regular Tommy Williams, who, after cutting a ribbon, invited folk to “commez on in”. He added: “I’m very honoured to be asked by Paul and Jane to celebrate the opening of this wonderful pub. What a great pleasure to see the Star Inn open again, the heart of the village, and all these locals as well. Please give Paul and Jane your support.”
The bar now offers cask beer from eight handpumps, and for the opening event there were four gravity-serve casks to be found on the brewers’ bar, in the brewery. The brewery is at the rear of the pub, in former stables, now looking out onto a newly-paved beer garden.
The brewery is the realm of brewers Lewis and Rich. To the right of the bar they proudly display the trophy for CAMRA’s Champion Beer of Britain, awarded back in August to Penzance Mild. The duo are carrying on the fine work begun by Pete back in 2008, and taken up later by his nephew, Rob Wilson. The classics remain: Potion No9, Trink, Brisons, IPA, and dark and dangerous Scilly Stout. These have now been joined by beers such as Lewis’s Scottish-inspired Thro’ The Rye and — created especially for the pub’s re-opening — 5% ABV golden bitter Ding Dong. Ding Dong is a former tin mine on the west Cornwall moors, but that’s doesn’t stop men of a certain age, such as myself, polishing up their best Leslie Philips impressions, to the bemusement of youngsters.
I first stepped into The Star in 2000, because I knew it was the only local that had James Vincent’s Ventonwyn beers. Short-lived, these beautiful brews, by a start-up brewer who would eventually find himself on Roger Ryman’s St Austell Brewery team, were deservedly championed by Pete. That ethos of championing great independent brewers continued over the years at The Star, through the original Andy White era of Keltek — when Magik really was magic — to Alan ‘Big Al’ Hinde’s esoteric and characterful Coastal Brewery brews.
Lewis and Rich are pushing the boundaries of Pete’s brewing legacy in a way that I know he would approve of, even though he wouldn’t have considered doing it himself. The beers also fly out to a dozen or more pubs in mid- and west Cornwall these days, boosting the profile of the brand, while also keeping it very firmly rooted. And the beers still have that indefineable ‘Penzance-ness’ about them.
Pop into The Star and try them for yourselves. You’ll love the respectful revamp, and, if you’ve been before, you’ll see a lot of faces you recognise. As I did on Friday. And what a joy it was.
Plus ça change, plus c’est la même chose.
