While I was out and about for an appointment yesterday, the world of beer as I see it from my 60-year-old perspective was undergoing a significant change.
It was revealed that the brewing of Exmoor Ales, which has been taking place in Devon since 1979, is moving to Hogs Back Brewery, in Surrey.
Three jobs have been lost as a consequence, although delivery and office positions are being maintained in Devon. And while the brands are safe, well, an Exmoor Ale made in Surrey, with the best will in the world, ain’t an Exmoor Ale.
But it was the only option managing director Jonathan Price could see. “The closure of a brewery is always sad, but, in the current market, it is becoming all too common as global brewers close opportunities for small local brewers,” he wrote in a letter to pubs and customers.
“A recent report by the Society of Independent Brewers and Associates (SIBA) showed that independent brewers are now denied access to more than half of all the pubs in their local area – this cannot be good for consumer choice.
“We very much hope times will change and Exmoor will retain the support of its loyal local customers.”
You might expect a Labour government, of all the shades of political persuasion, to be more supportive of small businesses and the socially important pub network generally, but it seems this is not the case.
The round of tax increases at the last Budget are being partly blamed by Exmoor’s brewery closure, the announcement coming days after news that Nuttycombe — which took on making RCH and Cotleigh brands — would also be closing its doors.
An important place in modern brewing history
It’s notable that of all politicians seen flying a flag for the British pub and a cask pint, Nigel Farage is often the first to spring to mind — not a man whose opinions or actions I or many of my circle of friends have time for.
Campaigning for British brewing and hospitality is being met by a wall of silence in Westminster. It’s assumed the industries will just suck up extra taxation and unreformed business rates levels as they always have. But the cracks are really showing now.
As every campaigning group is screaming, small brewers and independent hospitality need help to survive, and fast. Government, hang your heads in shame.
Exmoor Ales has an important place in modern brewing history. It was one of the first of a new wave of modern British microbreweries when it was established 46 years ago. It helped CAMRA’s campaign to bring back cask beer after the grim days of original keg.
Along with Hop Back’s Summer Lighting, its Exmoor Gold is credited with starting a trend for golden cask bitters, which exploded in later years.
Hogs Back is an excellent business partner for Exmoor Ales and will be a good custodian of the brewery’s recipes. The alternative was never to see the Exmoor brands again, so we can be thankful. But other brewers struggling with costs may not be so lucky.
“The closure of a brewery is always sad, but in the current market, it is becoming all too common as global brewers close opportunities for small local brewers,” said Jonathan Price.
Rupert Thompson, owner and chairman of Hogs Back Brewery, added: “In a very challenging market, one of the ways to survive and eventually prosper is to enter into close commercial collaborations with like-minded businesses. This allows for the sharing of resources, expertise and staff, and at the same time, saves a very popular local beer brand.”
