By Lotte Peplow, the Brewers Association’s craft beer ambassador for Europe
Lager, that most ubiquitous of beers. Its universal appeal lies in an easy-drinking, refreshing approachability that appeals to a wide audience of young and old drinkers alike.
Photographs: Brewers Association
Originating in Bavaria, Germany, as far back as the 15th century, the Reinheitsgebot, the German Purity Law of 1516, decreed that beer should only be brewed using barley, hops, and water. Over the years, brewing methods evolved to include yeast.
The first pilsner was crafted in Pilsen, Czech Republic, in 1842 and led to this style spawning many imitators. Today, lager dominates the global beer market, accounting for 90% of all beer consumed worldwide.
The distinct flavour profiles of lagers and ales are defined by the differing yeast strains used during the brewing process. Lagers are brewed with bottom-fermenting yeast and fermented at cold temperatures, typically for four to six weeks. In contrast, ales use top-fermenting yeast and are fermented at warmer temperatures for a shorter duration — sometimes just a few days.
Lagers make excellent gateway beers for young drinkers entering the world of alcohol for the first time. And they are growing in popularity with ageing craft beer lovers who are looking to limit their alcohol intake but continue to support their favourite brewery.
Before the American craft beer revolution, mass-produced light lager dominated the American beer scene. But a wide variety of lager styles exist around the world offering a strength and flavour to suit any palate. In fact, lager is not a style in and of itself, but rather a family of styles.
This year, the World Beer Cup will judge 20 distinct lager styles and 21 sub-styles. For the first time ever, Italian-style pilsner will have its own dedicated category. At the World Beer Cup, lager styles range from pale light zwickelbiers, to dark Czech lager; from low-strength gose to high-strength eisbocks; from light-bodied Berliner weisse to full-bodied doppelbock, and everything in between.
American craft brewers are celebrated for their pioneering spirit and innovative approach to brewing. Today, they continue to push boundaries by experimenting with new hop varieties and brewing techniques, and different yeast strains. Exploring the evolving world of lagers through insights from the key players offers a fascinating glimpse into this dynamic craft and where it might be heading in the future. Let’s take a look…
The story of American craft lager began in 1984 when Jim Koch established the Boston Beer Company and used a 150-year old family recipe to produce Samuel Adams Boston Lager. This rich, full-bodied lager introduced the American beer drinker to a world of complex flavour that rivalled European imports of the time. Today, pints of Boston Lager are found across America as well as further afield, and Koch personally tastes each batch to meet quality standards. According to Shelley Smith, R&D brewing and operations at Boston Beer Co, the success of Sam Adams Boston Lager comes down to this meticulous attention to detail and the high quality of its raw ingredients.
John McElhenny, senior brand manager at Samuel Adams, says: “Boston Lager has always been a hit with drinkers of all backgrounds, especially our most loyal fans who are a bit older (40 to 55-plus) and male. They helped kickstart the craft beer revolution with Jim Koch 40 years ago and remain loyal to this day.”
Both Smith and McElhenny anticipate continued growth in craft lagers, particularly within the light lager category. McElhenny says: “We recently launched American Light to target younger drinkers who prefer lighter flavours. It’s an American-style lager with the quality you expect from Sam Adams, but with a refreshing, crisp taste that younger drinkers love!”
Heading down the East coast to Norfolk, Virginia, in 2015 The Bold Mariner Brewing Co opened its doors with a mission to always brew clean, crisp, and easy-drinking beers. “It’s consistency and reliability of product that keeps patrons returning day in day out,” claims Kerrie Stacks, co-owner of the brewery. “We now have a well-established flagship line-up, seasonal releases that people look forward to, and the odd experiment.”
The brewery is located next to the world’s largest naval base and frequented by military personnel. IPAs continue to be popular, but the majority of visitors are looking for easy-drinking lighter beers. The brewery’s number one best-seller is Frogman Lager, a Vienna lager, and another popular brew is Lucky Cat, an award-winning Japanese pilsner, which uses Japanese rice and Sorachi Ace hops. Stacks says: “New yeast and hop varieties change flavour profiles and offer even more possibilities. Sometimes, these new innovations can really take off.”
With a sense of rebellion and exploration characterised by American craft brewers, Jack Hendley, co-owner and head brewer at Jack’s Abby Craft Lagers in Framingham, Massachusetts, looks further into the future and offers his predictions beginning with the potential for the hoppy lager category. “Considering the prominence of the hop-forward beers, it’s no surprise that hop selection and treatment methods are opening new frontiers for lager,” he says in his new book Modern Lager Beer (Brewers Publications, 2024). Examples include India pale lager, cold IPA, Italian pilsner and West Coast-style pilsner.
He also explains the developments in malt and our understanding of lager yeast and its traditional sensory impact. For example, new hybrid yeast strains may help generate distinct lager yeasts that bridge the gap between existing ale and lager strains. “Malt production has enthusiastically welcomed the rise of craft lager, and in the US today a new generation of smaller craft maltsters are seeking out heritage grains, novel barley varieties, and unique processing methods in order to meet new worldwide demands,” Hendler adds.
He suggests there’s a growing desire among some American craft brewers to carve their own identity in lager beer and apply old world brewing techniques with novel ingredients to create ‘land beer’ (similar to a kellerbier or zwickelbier) that becomes a totally unique expression of place.
But arguably the most adventurous potential trend Hendler cites is the use of wood to age lager. “Foeders and other wooden barrels help impart unique flavours to the finished beer, ranging from delicate nuances to intense oak-forward flavours, and presents an opportunity for brewers to explore new horizons. Lager may not be an obvious choice for oak character, but it can be a perfect medium for the simple expression of the subtleties of wood.”
Much food for thought exists in the wonderful world of American craft brewing, and one thing of which we can be certain, brewers will continue to evolve and widen the horizons for lager every year.
Don’t miss out!
The Craft Brewers Conference and BrewExpo America, from 28th April to 1st May, in Indianapolis, is the largest industry-only gathering in the States. Attendees will hear from a wide range of speakers during seminars across 12 different educational tracks. More than 550 exhibitors will be displaying the latest product innovations, suppliers, and services. The conference culminates with the awards ceremony for the World Beer Cup.
In the UK, American craft beer is available from selected national wholesalers for the trade and for consumers from online retailers such as Cave Direct/Beer Merchants, Brew Export, Beers of America, and selected bottle shops, off-licences, online subscription services, supermarkets, and some pubs and bars.
The Brewers Association publishes a wealth of resources to understand and enjoy craft beer, downloadable free of charge at brewersassociation.org.
About the author
Lotte Peplow is the American craft beer ambassador for Europe for the Brewers Association and is based in London. She is a certified cicerone, BDI-accredited beer sommelier, beer writer, author, beer communicator, international beer judge, CAMRA London taste panellist, homebrewer. and beer lover.
