The annual Celtic Beer Festival took place at St Austell Brewery on Saturday, and in my view this was one of the best of the 23 staged over the years.

Left to right: Wadworth 6x 1923, Penzance Brewing Co Thro’ The Rye, and Bath Ales Remember My Ale

The beer quality was absolutely tip-top across the event’s five bars — the Top Bar, Music Bar, Old Rum Store Bar, and Small Batch Brews Bar, and the Harbour bar, the latter serving beers from Harbour Brewing Co, in which St Austell has a stake.

As ever, there was a huge range of beers created by St Austell’s very talented team of brewers, led by Georgina Young. From English-hopped lager to a Belgian-style IPA, and spiced wheat beer to a seasalt-infused table beer, there was far more than one was ever going to be able to do justice to in one day.

It didn’t seem to be quite as crowded this year, which was good for those like me who find it difficult to move around the place in the middle of the afternoon, but I’m sure plenty will still be raised for the St Austell Brewery’s Charitable Trust. This distributes money to a wide variety of charities and good causes across the West Country. More than £1m has been raised since its launch in 2003.

For me, it’s a great place to meet old friends, and so many members of the St Austell team, including some familiar faces who have now retired from the business. And making their debut this year were Hoppy Notes, a choir comprising members from all parts of the business who performed some great pop classic before concluding with a stirring rendition of Cornwall My Home.

Beers I enjoyed

Bath Ales: Remember My Ale (6% ABV)
A strong ruby ale brewed with Munich, crystal, and brown malts, and hopped with Fuggles and Goldings. You don’t see many 6% ABV milds. In fact, I can only think of one. You know the one. A good brew, though, a proper winter warmer.

Joseph Holt: Sixex (6% ABV)
We don’t see much Holt’s beer down here in the West Country, so this was a rich, dark, strong treat. Warming and rich with dark fruit notes.

Wadworth: 6X 1923 (6% ABV)
Another 6% 6X, this time one I’m more familiar with from my formative drinking years. I still love 6X, but this had all its strengths accentuated. A robust malt background give Fuggles and Goldings hops a chance to sing their hedgerow, fruity song. Very satisfying.

Robinsons: Old Tom (8.5% ABV)
I recently had a bottle of Old Tom in its 125th anniversary livery, and it was lovely. But to find it on cask — what a treat! It’s fruity and spicy, warming and comforting, with a hint of espresso coffee coming through. My final beer on trade night. I slept well.

St Austell: Ernest Gold (3.4% ABV)
I’ve started getting into lagers in my old age, mostly encouraged by Devon’s Utopian Brewery, who make traditional continental styles using all-British ingredients. Similarly, this beer makes use of English Ernest hops to create a delightfully refreshing, sessionable lager which really deserves more exposure than just a small-batch run.

Penzance Brewing Co: Thro’ The Rye (4.6% ABV)
New brewer Lewis Elliott has developed this beer in the Scottish 80/- style and it’s a malt-led delight. Chocolate and coffee notes bring depth and moreishness. As the name suggests, there’s rye in the malt bill.

Burning Sky: Dignified & Old (5.4% ABV)
An old ale that’s been aged on American oak chips giving it a barrel-aged-like note. Molasses add a great depth to a brew featuring Maris Otter, Munich, and crystal malts. If pushed, I’d say this was my favourite beer of the weekend.