ESB. It has that air of authentic old beer style about it, doesn’t it? Like IPA, Solid, British, robust. Well, here’s the thing. It dates all the way back to… 1971. That was when Fuller’s came up with a new strong bitter and wanted to distinguish it from two other bitter brands, presumably Chiswick and London Pride. Extra Special Bitter was born.
Today, Fuller’s ESB (5.5% ABV) is still greeted like a long-lost friend when drinkers I know see it on a beer menu, so it was great to have some in The Front, in Falmouth, last night, but also to compare it to two new ESBs created by relatively new local brewery Dynamite Valley.
Dynamite Valley’s thing is American style beers, which is appropriate as the American brewers have taken the ESB baton and run with it, Ska Brewing, Redhook and Shipyard among many giving the style a go.
And you know what? The Dynamite Valley brews did give the original a run for its money. Maybe it’s because, relying on memory, which I admit isn’t great at the best of times, the Fuller’s did seem paler in colour than previously, and lighter in mouthfeel. Still a cracking pint, though, with toffee, fruity sweetness balanced by dry hop notes.
The Dynamite Valley Pony Express (5.8% ABV) was a darker amber than the Fuller’s and had that fruity, figgy, caramel sweetness going on with hints of chocolate and some spice. It was hazy, but then Daynamite Valley don’t fine, which is, er, fine by me. Definitely one of the nicest of this brewer’s beers I’ve tasted so far. But wait, there was a Dynamite Valley collaboration, too, with local forager Stuart Woodman. This had an addition of damson to create that fruity sweetness and I reckon it was the pick of the two local brews, if not of all three. Light amber with a white head, the damson wasn’t at all overpowering and there was a lovely bittersweet finish to sent you back to Matt’s laden bar for more.
These ESBs should still be at The Front today (Friday) and if you’re passing they’re well worth a try.
